Slow-Smoked Texas Barbecue is BACK in South Miami
The best thing to hit US-1 since the Virgin Megastore
Texans, as a whole, are about as subtle as Pride parade. You’ll realize this if you ever actually go to Texas, and see a state flag the size of Paraguay flying over a doghouse. Or hear Texans tell you, with complete seriousness, that human civilization actually started somewhere outside Marfa. Hyperbole is the official language of the Texan, but one place they don’t exaggerate is when bragging about the quality of their barbecue. And to their credit, I’ve never once heard a Texan say, “it’s in the water.”
Texan Mel Rodriguez is no exception, knowing full well that smoking brisket is in his blood. Last week, he re-opened La Traila Texas Craft Barbecue in South Miami in a much bigger space with a totally revamped menu. I’m not from Texas, so I’m not going to say his barbecue is the biggest, best, or endorsed by Jesus Christ himself . But I will say that unlike most people from Texas, La Traila’s food makes bold statements without saying a word.
So how’s this La Traila different from the old one in Miami Lakes?
This one is a full-service restaurant, with a big air-conditioned dining room and an outdoor patio. That’s a microcosm for the menu, too. The old, fast-casual spot leaned heavily on slow-smoked meats, burgers, and original recipe sausages. This spot has all that, plus a longer menu of Miami-infused creations, making it more of a restaurant than a simple barbecue joint.
The space: Is barbecue counter-meets-neighborhood restaurant. La Traila greets its guests with two massive, trailer-sized smokers on the front patio, where they can watch pitmasters do their thing with brisket, ribs, and turkey. Smoke fills the air but doesn’t seep inside, so you won’t smell like mesquite for the rest of the day. You can sit comfortably indoors, or on the patio as you take in the sun and smoke. Just be aware you’re right on US-1, so there might be some car noise.
What to eat and drink: Mel excels in smoked meats, and the Creekstone Farms smoked brisket and turkey platters are the way to go for BBQ purists. Order those the first time to get a sense of what La Traila does. On your next visit try the smoked beef cheek tostadas with a side of brisket-topped elote corn. The loaded barbecue quesadilla with roasted beef and pico de gallo brings a smoky overtone that will ruin you on eating quesadillas in sports bars. Ditto for the brisket and queso empanadas, that make the classic churrascaria version seem bland. Unbelievably, I skipped the Texas Hot Guts Sausage.
La Traila’s burger – a smoked brisket patty I had on several of Thrillist’s Best Burger lists - is back, served as the Ring Burger with American, BBQ aioli, pickles and onions. I’d suggest the fries, but they’re fried in beef tallow which, c’mon Mel. You’re better than that.
Don’t miss: The sweet potato cornbread. It’s a twist on a classic that makes it better, especially with honey butter.
Perfect for: Taking Texas transplants, who’ll begrudgingly say something along the lines of, “It ain’t as good as we have in Plano, but this is some damn good brisket.”
Expect to pay: $25-30 per person, with tip.
How’s the parking: Park in the Sunset Place garage. It’s a little slice of nostalgia with your lunch.
@latrailabarbecue // 5840 SW 71st St., South Miami