This New French Restaurant Is Completely Kosher
For the last time, there's no matzoh ball soup
Photo courtesy of Maison Ostrow
The French are great at a lot of things. Food. Wine. Somehow looking cool while chain smoking and playing the accordion. Then there are things they’re not so great at, like tolerating people who don’t speak French. And wars. Also on that list: Kosher food, since the basic concept of French cuisine is getting people to eat weird animals by covering them in cheese.
But chef Olivia Ostrow is trying to prove those stereotypes wrong. Not only does she happily speak to guests in languages other than French, she’s also created a fabulous French menu at her new Maison Ostrow in North Bay Village, a restaurant which also happens to be completely kosher. How’s she pull it off? And is the food any good? And are accordions involved? Here’s all you need to know about the Maison Ostrow, which opened Sunday.
How’s she making French food kosher?
Chef Ostrow wants to be abundantly clear: This isn’t a kosher restaurant. It’s a French restaurant that serves kosher. Why is she so hung up on semantics? Because the food is French, and she doesn’t want anyone expecting overcooked brisket and matzoh balls. She gets around the whole milk-meat thing by using non-dairy butter. She’s using kosher meats, inspecting produce for insects, and basically doing all the other things one needs to do to be kosher. You won’t find any porc aux preneaux on the menu, but if you like French food, you will find some favorites.
Photo courtesy of Maison Ostrow
The Space: If aliens dropped in from outer space, and for some reason decided to stop for dinner on the JFK Causeway, they’d assume Maison Ostrow was an Italian restaurant. White brick porticos look into the kitchen. A painting of the Mona Lisa blowing a bubble hangs near the bar. There’s even a guy singing Sinatra in the dining room. But if our intergalactic friends delved a little deeper, they’d find funky French art on the walls (part of Ostrow’s own collection) giving a distinct brasserie vibe. Plus, white tablecloths and formally dressed waiters adding a hint of fine dining.
What to eat and drink: The baguettes are fantastic, and if you order them with the trio of truffle, beet, and orange hummus you’ll ruin your main course like you ordered the chips and salsa at Chili’s. Assuming you show some self control during the bread course, the beef and truffle carpaccio is light, and doesn’t murder the meat with truffle. The steak frites is a juicy ribeye cooked a perfect medium rare that’ll have you rethinking kosher meat. If that’s too heavy, the endive and “bleu cheese” salad is a fun way to try Ostrow’s dairy-free dairy.
Photos courtesy of Maison Ostrow
Perfect for: Family dinner when you have kosher friends, or a kosher date. Or either of the above with non-kosher eaters.
Pro tips: Get a table in the back room if you can. You won’t be treated to the Sinatra serenade they get in the front, but you will be surrounded by one of Miami’s best restaurant collections of modern art.
Expect to pay: $100-$150 per person. Wine prices are actually pretty reasonable, but the food can add up fast.
How’s the parking: Great! There’s valet, but plenty of parking in the lot surrounding the restaurant.
@maisonostrow // 1666 79th Street Causeway, North Bay Village