The World's Greatest Pizza Maker Has Opened in Wynwood
Who needs cheese when you have tomato cream and onion gelatin?
It seems like at least once a month the “best pizza maker in the world” decides to open a spot in Miami. Amazing, that many people can be the best pizza maker in the world, but who are we to argue with Italian hyperbole? This week’s prime pizzaiolo, Francesco Martucci, has a little more weight behind him, helming last year’s #1 pizzeria in the world I Mananielli in Caserta. His new self-named spot takes over one of Wynwood’s great white elephant restaurant spaces, and seems primed to break the wood-fired curse.
Martucci calls himself a “pizza disruptor.” And though we were previously unaware pizza was something that needed disrupting, the man known as “The Bear” is indeed offering something different from the glut of “we even import our lightbulbs from Italy!” pizza places, and opens today.
So how is this different than the 700 other pizza spots that have opened in the last year?
The crust is the big differentiator, a thicker, butterier take that seems like Neapolitan and focaccia had a love child. Martucci also tops his pies with far-from-traditional ingredients – if you’re going here expecting to order a marghertia or cheese slice, Joe’s is a few blocks away. Martucci treats his crusts like a canvas, covering them in inventive adaptations of traditional pizza toppings, like if Jose Andres decided to get into the pizza game.
What to eat and drink: While we’ll stop short of calling this molecular gastronomy pizza, Martucci is presenting toppings in ways you’ve definitely never seen. The Assoluto di Pomodoro presents tomatoes as blistered, jam, sun-dried, sautéed, and mousse. And instead of cheese, there’s tomato cream. Similar is the Le 7 Consistenze Della Cipolla, where onions are reimagined as everything from crispy fried to gelatinized.
There’s also an entire menu of fried croquettes, including an arancino with pork ragu and bechamel. As well as one with ground beef, five cheeses, and fresh basil. You can indulge with big plates too – the required-by-code A5 Wagyu steak makes an appearance, as well as a bluefin tuna platter. But pizza is what this guy does best, so best to stick to that.
The space: You might remember from its previous lives as other flame-inspired spots Log , Shelter, and Made in Italy. Martucci has thankfully removed the animal heads from the wall and the piles of logs from the dining room, creating a tall, dark, sexy space with an open kitchen and a wood burning oven. Large leather booths line the outside with glass wine bottle walls separating the main room. Its convivial, though the two-tops are just close enough that you can hear the people next to you chewing.
Don’t miss: The aforementioned Assuluto di Pomodoro is one of those things you bite into and go, “What the hell am I tasting?” in the best possible way. If you like tomatoes, it’s the move.
Perfect for: Date night for savvy diners who want something different; Group dinners
Expect to spend: Gourmet pies can run $35 or more. Split one and you’re out the door for around $50 a person if you want wine or an appetizer. But you’ll probably want to get two.
How’s the parking: Abysmal, this is Wynwood after all. Though parking on 29th Street and walking gives you a built-in after dinner stroll.
@martucci_miami // 10 NE 27th St., Wynwood