Would a taco by any other color still taste as delicious? Very introspective question for a taco, I know, but Steve Santana is banking on the fact that it does. The man who made his name putting out blue corn tortillas at Taquiza has made some changes at his new, Little River location. The biggest one? The tortillas are a brilliant shade of gold.
After eight years in North Beach, Taquiza moved across the causeway into its new digs this week, right next to the old Off Site Brewing space on NE 2nd Ave. Somehow, the laid back, delicious taco shop got even more laid-back, and more delicious. Santana’s added some new twists to the menu, revamped some dishes, and ditched anything resembling a dining room. The result is a place that can make a strong claim as the best taco shop in Miami.
Hold up, YELLOW tortillas? That ain’t my Taquiza, sarge!
Relax, pal, close your eyes and you won’t know the difference. Santana and company have been making these golden masa beauties for years. You see, in addition to plating tacos at the Taquiza locations you knew and loved, the boys have quietly been making tortillas for restaurants and catering clients out of their commercial kitchen. And after dozens of clients came back saying how delicious the yellow corn was, Santana made the switch. I tried them, and I actually liked them better.
The scene: Is like a picnic, where everybody brought tacos. Taquiza has turned its commercial kitchen (where it did all its catering work) into a taco counter. That means no indoor seating and – as far as the City of Miami is concerned – no seating at all. Are there some picnic tables outside where you’re welcome to sit and enjoy your tacos with a cold beer? Why yes, yes there are. But Santana doesn’t know anything about that. Despite record heat and evening thunderstorms, the tables were mostly full on the weeknight I went, so nobody seemed to mind braving the elements.
What to eat and drink: The old classics are still the same, just wrapped in gold. So if you were a carne asada or achiote chicken devotee, by all means, go for it. Santana’s added a bunch of new stuff too, including a revamped lengua taco with thin sliced tongue, slow braised so you barely know it’s, well, tongue. The vegetarian rajas taco is also mostly new, with charred poblano peppers, onions, and mushrooms in a cilantro cream. Somehow, it hits heavier than the meat options.
The three new salsas on the menu absolutely slap. The jalapeno-garlic cremosa and the spicier chile de arbol come with your tacos, as well as the trusty old salsa taquero. You only get two per taco order, but pay a little extra and try all three. If you want something to dip your totopos in, shell out five bucks for the new Salsa Temada, a fire-roasted tomato salsa that’s so addictive you’ll finish an entire basket of fluffy totopos involuntarily. And yes, the totopos still come in blue corn, though you can get yellow ones now, too.
For drinks, try the new bottled horchata. It’s a smoother version of the one you probably know and they make it fresh daily.
Perfect for: Quick dinner, lunch or dinner to-go.
Pro tip: Mix the Salsa Temada with the OG salsa taquero on top of your tacos. It’s like the most ramped up, flavorful Cholula you ever tried.
Expect to pay: $15-25
How’s the parking: Pretty easy street parking all around.
@taquizatacos // 8246 NE 2nd Ave., Little River