Via Emilia 9
Italians will never admit any food outside their homeland is even respectable. But you might get a quiet, raised eyebrow and a “not bad” if you take one to Via Emilia 9. The menu comes from the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, which Italians will tell you has the best food in the country. Pair the tortellini in brodo with a nice Lambrusco for a real taste of the region. And make sure to start with the signature Affettati Emiliani e Gnocco Fritto, a spread of Italian meats and cheeses served with the restaurant’s house-made puffy bread.
Pro tip: Peruse the market on your way out and you’ll find many of the same ingredients used in your food. Your cooking results may vary.
@via_emilia9 // 1120 15th St., South Beach
PASTA
PASTA came to Wynwood via Lima, where Peruvian chefs Janice Buraschi and Juan Manuel Umbert built a restaurant around — believe it or not — fresh, handmade… pasta. Start with the yellowfin tuna tartare, where aji amarillo and egg-yolk “bottarga” give the fish an unexpected richness. The pici cacio e pepe is the dish I’d come back for, though the Peruvian corn cappellacci and 15-hour beef-cheek pappardelle make a strong case for ordering a few pastas on your visit.
Pro tip: Reserve a counter seat so you can watch each bowl come together.
@pasta.us // 124 NW 28th St., Wynwood
Macchialina
When a new, “Don’t you know who we are in New York?” Italian restaurant opens up, the standard it’s held against is Macchialina. Because if an Italian spot’s not better than this Alton Road stalwart, it’s not worth a local’s time. The fresh pastas and savory meat dishes Michael Pirolo puts out rarely fail to satisfy. And in Macchialina’s larger space, you don’t have to wait as long for a table either.
Pro tip: Book the Wednesday pasta omakase if you can. Twelve guests sit at the bar for a rotating lineup of crudos, pastas, and dessert, a fun way to check out the restaurant without picking only one pasta.
@macchialina // 810 Alton Road, South Beach
Anthony’s Runway 84
Yes, Comment Mafia, I’m well aware Anthony’s Runway 84 is in Fort Lauderdale. But for the love of God, stop acting like Broward County is in Alaska. The 30-minute drive is quicker than driving to Coral Gables some days, and it’s worth it for this icon of Italian-American dining. Live lounge singers, questionable characters in expensive suits, and a staff that’s been there for ages are only part of why Runway’s been around so long. The food is also first-rate, and mainstays like the Veal Chop Danielle and Chicken Vodka Parm have become traditions for many a South Florida family. It’s a fun special-occasion spot, even if the occasion is just that you made it to Fort Lauderdale before noon.
Pro tip: Friday lunch is the move if you can swing it. In December, Runway expands its Power Lunch to Tuesday through Friday.
@runway84 // 330 W. State Road 84, Fort Lauderdale
Soya e Pomodoro
Soya e Pomodoro proves you don’t need to spend the Marlins’ entire payroll on a restaurant buildout to be great. Sometimes all you need is some mismatched vintage furniture and a narrow downtown edifice to create a date-night classic. There’s something beautifully understated about Soya e Pomodoro, the kind of place you’d expect a cocker spaniel and a mutt to be slurping noodles together in the back alley. The food is a long lineup of Italian classics you know, and while it has no interest in chasing “foodie” lists, it’s the pinnacle of the romantic Italian restaurant.
Pro tip: Check the website and see when they’ll have live jazz. It ups the romance by a factor of 10.
@soyaepomodoro // 120 NE 1st St., Downtown
Caffe Abbracci
Caffe Abbracci has been feeding Coral Gables power players since 1989 —back when closing a deal over lunch meant at least three martinis and no cell phones. Founder Nino Pernetti trained the staff to remember your name, your drink, and probably what you were celebrating in 1997 — the kind of level of detail you rarely see nowadays. The menu matches the old-school setting filled with dishes like Tortellini “Tatiana” filled with Asiago and pear, Ravioli “Katerina” stuffed with short rib, and the Black Lobster Ravioli.
Pro tip: Go for lunch, when the Coral Gables power-restaurant energy is at its most potent.
@caffeabbracci_ // 318 Aragon Ave., Coral Gables
Luca Osteria
Much like the city he comes from, nothing Miami native Giorgio Rapicavoli does is subtle. But if you like flavors that are as in-your-face as Michael Irvin at a Canes game, Luca Osteria is the Italian restaurant for you. Giorgio’s bold variations, like yellowfin tuna caprese (cheese and fish?? È una vergogna!), bring flavors you never knew belonged together. And his classics, like cacio e pepe and short rib Bolognese, are far richer and more complex than their competitors.
Pro tip: While the main courses are great, sharing a ton of apps here is the move so you can try as many of Giorgio’s inventive little dishes as you can.
@lucaosteria // 116 Giralda Ave., Coral Gables