My husband is 9 percent Greek — a fact I enjoy bringing up whenever he brags talks about his Greek side. To his credit, his Greek heritage played a big role in his upbringing, so he came into newcomer Manoli knowing the food and ready with opinions. We both left impressed – from a menu filled with Greek classics to the fun touches like yellow fishermen’s overalls and a late-night celebration with Greek music, flying napkins, and broken plates.
Let’s just say I haven’t heard this much Greek music since my own version of My Big Fat Greek Wedding two-and-a-half years ago.
Manoli opened this summer in the former Sereia space on Main Highway in Coconut Grove. The highly pedigreed Greek chef Emmanouil “Manoli” Aslanoglou is behind the menu and he serves shared plates, Greek classics, and some Miami fusion-y takes on Greek favorites.
Is it worth the buzz? Sure. The dining room was packed, from families with small kids to groups celebrating birthdays.
The Space: The team built the Greek-coastal look around yellow, skipping the played-out white-and-blue palette. Nautical striped chairs sit beside Greek plate tiles, with pops of yellow throughout and servers wearing yellow fishermen’s overalls. The booths come in a mix of patterns, and the tiled floor completes the look.
A yellow-striped hallway takes you to the restrooms. Inside the women’s room, the team displays Greek-language copies of Vogue, Cosmopolitan, and other fashion magazines from the mid-’90s. I can’t speak for the men’s room, but the magazines are one of the best design details in the restaurant.
What to Eat & Drink: Chef focuses on Greek classics and mixes in a few fusion dishes. The empanada-style spanakopita puts spinach, feta, and green herbs inside a crisp shell, then comes with feta dip on the side. The empanada is a clear nod to Miami.
The gyro tacos come packed with Black Angus ribeye, tzatziki, tomato, and smoked paprika, all wrapped in mini pitas, with enough meat to make them a meal on their own.
The saganaki arrived hot and browned before the server set it on fire with ouzo, natch. The Mediterranean mussels were my favorite of the opening plates. They came in a feta sauce with oregano and grilled sourdough, a combination I hadn’t seen before and would order again. The portion was generous, close to a pound, and the mussels themselves were enormous. For our main course, we had the lamb chops with fries cut almost as thick as steak fries and finished with Greek herbs.
The team rolls a dessert cart through the dining room filled with Greek sweets. We tried the baklava, a bite of Greek yogurt, and the warm loukoumades. The yogurt was dense and topped with fruit, while the loukoumades arrived hot from the kitchen, sweet and sticky and delicious.
Our server told us a team in Greece developed the drinks. The cocktail menu comes as an illustrated booklet with every ingredient labeled, but I still think Greek wine is the easy choice with this food.
Perfect For: Birthday dinners with a group. Date night with some fun vibes. Anyone who wants some good Greek food.
Pro Tip: Book a later table from Thursday through Sunday. Around 9 or 9:30 p.m., the Greek music starts, napkins go into the air, plates hit the floor, and everyone yells “Opa!” A group of women celebrating their birthdays during our visit even got to throw a few plates.
Expect to Pay: Honestly, the prices weren’t outrageous for once. Plan on around $50-$100 per person depending on your drink situation. One of the larger whole fish will bring the total higher.
How’s the parking? Use the valet at the door for now. The Coconut Grove Playhouse lot is nearby, next to Taurus, but construction makes crossing the street a pain in the ass. Once that clears, it’ll be a good self-parking option.
@manoligreek // 3540 Main Hwy., Coconut Grove