Thirty Years In, Le Bouchon du Grove Is Still Getting It Right
Coconut Grove's most enduring French bistro hasn't changed much since 1994, but that’s half the charm
I used to live in Coconut Grove. For years, Le Bouchon du Grove was less of a restaurant choice and more of a given, especially for brunch, especially for the raspberry pancakes. I moved away eventually, and my visits slowed down. But I never stopped thinking of it as mine. I went back recently for lunch with my husband and in-laws, half expecting the place to have slipped a little, half knowing it wouldn’t.
Le Bouchon du Grove has been at 3430 Main Highway since 1994, a Lyonnaise bistro planted in one of Miami’s oldest neighborhoods, helmed by Chef Christian Ville.The restaurant hasn’t changed much over the years, still serving traditional French bouchon food, made from scratch.
Is it still worth the hype? Yes. The dishes that made it worth going to in the first place are still the reason to go.
The Space: Small tables packed in close, and a dining room that hasn’t been redesigned since the ‘90s. There’s no A/C. There were ten fans running the afternoon we were there, and the staff stayed on top of water refills the entire meal. We all sweated through lunch, but still stayed for dessert.
What to Eat & Drink: Start with the escargots en persillade, they arrive sizzling, in garlic and parsley butter, with enough heat that you have to wait a beat before touching them. I’ve had a run of escargot lately with a metallic aftertaste that lingers in the wrong way. This had none of that. Just clean, buttery snails the table cleared fast.
The croque monsieur comes on a French baguette rather than toast, which keeps it heartier than the version you probably have in your head. We ordered eggs on top, got a side salad and salty fries alongside. The fries were just the right amount of salty.
One thing I had never noticed in all my years of going, their Gratinée Lyonnaise (aka French onion soup) uses Swiss cheese instead of Gruyère, which apparently is a traditional Lyon preparation making it a little cleaner and milder under the broth.
We shared the Piperade Omelette Basque across the table, split for four. Good, but if you go in hoping for a classic French omelet, silky and just barely set, this reads more like what you’d get at a solid American brunch spot. Just not quite what I had in my head.
The Salade d’Endives à la Fourme d’Ambert et aux Noix, Belgian endive with French blue cheese and walnuts, is a nicely composed salad. I’m not a blue cheese person, so it was an okay plate for me, but the components are there if that’s your thing. Les moules marinières pommes frites are the reason I keep coming back. Fresh mussels in white wine and shallots, fries alongside. They come out in a cast iron pot (Le Creuset like, but not the actual brand), and its garlicky goodness is still as good as its ever been.
For dessert: the raspberry pancakes ($13). They’re on the breakfast menu. I ordered them at lunch, as a dessert. I’m not sorry, and neither should you be. The wine by the glass list has a tasty Sancerre on it. Score.
Perfect For: Anyone who used to live in the Grove and needs an excuse to go back. In-law lunches. A long, slow Saturday. People who believe a restaurant doesn’t need to be trendy to be worth going to.
Pro Tip: Gratis mimosa on the weekends. Oh, and it’s hot there, especially in summer. Dress accordingly.
Expect to Pay: Around $50 to $70 per person at lunch with a glass of wine.
How’s the parking? The CocoWalk garage at 3015 Grand Ave is your best bet. Rates depend on length and time of stay.
@lebouchondugrove // 3430 Main Hwy, Coconut Grove