CocoWalk's Newest Restaurant Does Everything Well
Cheesecake Who?
It was, indeed, a sad day for Coconut Grove when we lost our beloved Cheesecake Factory on the second floor of CocoWalk. Like, last night at The Tavern-level sad. And while Planta Queen was a nice replacement, there was still a serious void in the high-quality, a-little-something-for-everyone department in the Grove.
Well, I’m happy to report that void has been successfully filled with the opening of Grand Public Kitchen and Bar, where you can roll in with a group of differing tastes and still see everyone leave satisfied. It comes to Miami from some Canadian hospitality vets. And as we’ve seen with spots like Earls, Moxy’s, and Cactus Club, our ever-polite neighbors to the north are eager to please, executing several different styles exquisitely.
So is this like Cheesecake Factory 2.0?
Not quite. Its menu doesn’t require an entire freshman year English course to finish, first of all. It’s also a far more elevated experience. They’ve taken much of Planta Queen’s chic décor, removed the palm fronds and tropical nods, and created an elegant, modern dining room. Where it does resemble your favorite post-prom dinner spot is that the menu is all over the board, so you can order hummus, sushi, and meatball rigatoni all on the same table.
The scene: Is a modern, American dining room looking out over the streets of Coconut Grove. It might boast the Grove’s best restaurant view that isn’t on a rooftop. The main bar area has four massive flat screen TVs, ideal for game watching, with some low-slung lounge tables to the side perfect for ignoring said game. The crowd skews super-local, with happy-houring corporate types at the bar and older Grove-and-Gables residents trying out their newest neighbor.
What to eat and drink: Grand Public Kitchen and Bar does what Canadian restaurants seem to do better than anyone – tackle multiple cuisines well. The Parker House rolls could give Sunny’s a run for their money, and the Mediterranean Dips and puffy laffa bread are dangerously good – so much so you may fill yourself up before dinner. The Miami Roll with coconut shrimp, cucumber, and mango is a crowd-pleasing interlude before the mains, the kind of sushi people who usually avoid Japanese food will still enjoy.
I opted for the meatball rigatoni, mostly because the meatballs don’t have pork in them which is a welcomed change. They nail the homestyle flavor here, and while it’s not the most memorable meatball you’ll ever have you’ll still leave satisfied. The French Dip was also nicely executed and probably the best move for lunch. The burger with aged cheddar on brioche came highly recommended but it was, ultimately, a over-buttered burger. There’s more interesting stuff on the menu so leave this for the kids – or people who eat like kids.
On the drinks side, the Peacock is the made-for-Instagram star, a Patron-and-matcha number served in a big peacock glass. If you order more for your tastebuds than your eyes, opt for the She’s Spicy with Cazadores Reposado, Patron Jalapeno-Citonage, Watermelon, agave, and lime.
Don’t miss: The dips and Laffa bread. Again, be careful not to let it spoil your dinner. Or do, the pasta was even better the next day.
Perfect for: Dinner out in the Grove with a group whose tastes range from Flannigan’s to Zuma.
Expect to pay: The Miami-standard $50-85 per person. $100 if you drink.
How’s the parking: Park in the CocoWalk garage.
@enjoygrandpublic // 3015 Grand Ave., Suite 201, Coconut Grove