If you went to Tavern in the Grove at any point in the 2000s, chances are you know my buddy Nate. Nate was the big, bearded bouncer who stood outside the door looking like a cross between Hagrid and the lead singer from Drowning Pool, examining the New Jersey IDs of Miami high school students for over a decade. Could he spot a fake? Sure. Was he going to stop you? Only if you weren’t tipping. And if you were a cute girl, you could probably get away with that too.
I mention this because from time to time, me and Nate like to relive the glory days while we roam the streets of Coral Gables looking for dinner. This past Tuesday, we happened upon a little taqueria called Fonda Dona Leonor, and I swear sprang out of nowhere. Both of us had walked this stretch of Miracle Mile dozens of times. Never had either of us noticed a Mexican restaurant there. It seemed as if it had sprung up from another dimension as soon as the urge for Mexican food hit.
Inside, we found the most abundant, overstuffed tacos in Miami, served at a price that made us feel like it was 2007 again. And even if you don’t have Tavern memories from that era, you can still appreciate a good bargain.
There are, at last count, more taco places in Miami currently than Guadalajara. Why should I go here?
Interestingly enough, we learned this is the fast-casual offshoot of Maiz y Agave. Meaning the tacos here are of the same quality as you’d find down the street, at a fraction the cost. Think of it like the Buccan Sandwich Shop of Mexican food.
The scene: Feels exactly like the little fondas you find in Mexico, with a smattering of tables, colorful walls, and massive plates of food. This is Miracle Mile, so it’s still more upscale than your average taqueria, but Fonda Dona Leonor balances elegance and casual brilliantly.
What to eat and drink: The tacos are the move. At $6 each, they might seem a little pricey. But each one comes stuffed with rice, overflowing with meat, and served on two fresh-made corn tortillas. I’d suggest the chicken milanese taco, which includes an entire breaded chicken breast. Nate and I are both big dudes, and both agreed one would be enough for lunch. You can load them up at the fresh salsa bar, which has everything from pico de gallo to spicy tomate.
The carne asada quesadilla is filled with a high-quality mix of Mexican cheeses, and by my estimation, an entire sirloin’s worth of meat. It’s the best choice if you’re splitting an entrée.
For dessert, don’t miss the sweet corn cake. It’s essentially a sweet Mexican cornbread, but shaped like an ear of corn. Ideal for “Is it Cake?” the home game.
Don’t miss: The ceramic cups at the salsa bar. Each one has a fun Spanish saying on it, and the more salsas you try the more you laugh.
Perfect for: Cheap weekday lunch. Quick, casual dinner.
Expect to pay: Under $10 if you just want a taco. $20 if you’re getting a torta or quesadilla.
How’s the parking: Limited street parking on Miracle Mile. Use the city garage one block south.
@lafondadonaleonor // 369 Miracle Mile, Coral Gables