Long before Miami became a culinary playground, Chef Allen Susser was helping put South Florida on the gastronomic map. Believe it or not - in Loehmanns Plaza!
He is one of the founding fathers of Floribbean cuisine, alongside the likes of Norman Van Aken, Douglas Rodriguez and Cindy Hutson. The James Beard Award winner’s namesake restaurant, Chef Allen’s, enjoyed a remarkable 25-year run. And while plenty of chefs are chasing the next big thing, Susser has always understood that the best ingredients are often growing right in our backyard and the best fish are swimming in our sea.
These days he’s taking his love affair with local ingredients outdoors in the 954 as part of the Sunness Supper Club. This Sunday ritual will feature carefully selected tropical produce, artisan breads, local honey gourmet cheeses, and live jazz. Sunness Street Food creations include mango BBQ ribs, garlic-grilled shrimp rolls and a rotating special inspired by whatever the farmers bring that week. It’s part market, part neighborhood gathering and entirely in keeping with Susser’s belief that great food begins with great ingredients.
Learn more about Chef Allen, and visit his latest and greatest every Sunday from 11 A.M. - 3 P.M.!
Name: Allen Susser
Nickname: Besides Chef? Well, chefs call me Chef!
Owner at: Founding Culinary Partner, but I wear many hats.
Why Miami: I’ve lived in Broward County, in Hollywood, for ages. I had Chef Allen’s for 25 years, and I’ve always been a big part of Miami’s culinary scene. I really think of it as South Florida because culturally, that’s what it is. I’m originally from Brooklyn, so I’m a New Yorker at heart. Doing something in Fort Lauderdale is very exciting.
Childhood leftover memory: I always cooked with my grandma. We lived in a three-family house, and I was the middle child, so I got so much love from her. We would make hot dogs and baked beans together in a pot with mustard and seasonings. That was always my go-to in the leftover department.
Favorite restaurant to take leftovers home from: I don’t take leftovers home! He bursts out laughing. Eat it once, enjoy it, and tomorrow is a new day.
My last meal would be: Probably mamaliga, which is polenta with sour cream. That’s the ultimate comfort food.
If you were a guest in your own restaurant what would you order? Fish! I love fish. Fresh fish offers such diversity in textures and flavors. It’s also where I can really showcase my talent because there’s so much thought that goes into how you prepare, cook and present it.
What music is playing in your kitchen: Bob Dylan.
What do you wear at home in the kitchen: A T-shirt and an apron.
Favorite thing about the South Florida restaurant scene: The diversity. It’s young, approachable, growing and constantly evolving. There’s something new every day and so many opportunities to eat something different every night.
Least favorite thing about the South Florida restaurant scene: When it’s unprofessional or when people are in it just for the money. To me, a restaurant should be a refuge, a place to relax, step away from the world and enjoy the people you’re with. When everything comes down to dollars and cents, it takes the fun out of it.
After work, I drink (alcoholic/non-alcoholic): Nonalcoholic sparkling water. I make my own!
What would people be most surprised to know about you: I’m pretty easygoing, although I’m very detail-oriented. Maybe they’d be surprised that I love saltwater fishing, whether it’s in the ocean or the Gulf. Red snapper, gray snapper, wahoo, grouper, tuna. I love catching flavorful fish.
Your go-to spots in Miami: I love Phuc Yea. They do a great job. I also love Zak the Baker. It’s easy to eat, enjoy yourself and see all the fun things happening there. Eating with Michael Beltran is always great, too. I tend to go where I know the chefs. Seeing them and enjoying that camaraderie is a big part of what dictates where I eat. I also like The Katherine with Timon and Wan’s by Alek Kuk.
Kitchen tool you swear by: My Henckels French knife.
Most over-rated culinary trend: I don’t follow trends, so I’m not a fan of them in general. Something takes off on social media, like a French dip sandwich, and suddenly everyone is obsessed with it for five minutes. That’s not what cooking is about.
Thoughts on MSG: Good question! I actually like it. I grew up with it because my mom used it. Later, I was taught not to use it, but I dug a little deeper and realized it definitely has its place.
Favorite thing to cook at home: Morning eggs! Sunny-side up with whatever cheese I have around, maybe goat cheese, feta or Parmigiano Reggiano.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be doing: Helping people somewhere! Maybe I’d be a teacher, but definitely not math. Both of my parents were teachers, so perhaps I’d teach home economics. I took home ec in school, back when it was mostly girls learning to cook and manage a household. I was the only guy, and I could cook better than everyone! Home ec was my place.
What advice would you give aspiring chefs: Taste everything as you’re preparing and cooking it. And take your time. Learn from different restaurants and chefs, be patient and don’t rush your career. Build a solid foundation and learn from everyone. Everyone eats, and there are lessons to be learned from every single person.
What is your #1 guest-order pet peeve: When guests take the entire menu apart as if they’re shopping in a marketplace! No garlic, no pistachios, only almonds, just mashed potatoes. I understand allergies and special requests, and those don’t upset us, but completely reinventing a dish is another story.
Favorite city to visit for food: Paris. I lived there, I cooked there, and although I hated learning French in school, I finally learned the language through cooking. I fell in love with the city, the markets, the pâtisseries and the bistros. It’s incredibly inspiring, everything is so fresh, and the city holds amazing memories for me.