A Quickie With Eileen Andrade
She hates leftovers, but we love her anyway
When you literally grow up inside Islas Canarias, you’re either going to become a chef, or never step inside a restaurant again. Fortunately for us, Eileen Andrade chose the former, and the child who came up in Croqueta County has become one of Miami’s pioneers in Latin-Asian fusion. But perhaps more importantly, she blazed a trail for chef driven restaurants in chain-choked Kendall. And since Finka Table & Tap opened in 2014 it’s consistently one of Miami’s toughest reservations.
In the years since she opened Amelia’s 1931 at the edge of the Everglades, and has grown into one of the most respected culinary minds in Miami. But she’s also big into jazz and plays a little drums too. She sat down with us while her staff blasted Boyz II Men, and told us a little about why she hates leftovers.
Name: Eileen Andrade
Position: Owner, Finka Table & Tap; Amelia’s 1931
Nickname: Mimi. My mom says that when I was born, she just looked at me and that’s the first thing that came to her mind, that I looked like a little Mimi. It’s funny because at my parents’ restaurant, a lot of people don’t know my real name. They just know me as Mimi. So people will come in and ask for Eileen and they’re like, who’s that?
Childhood leftover memory: Can I be frank and say that I hate leftovers? Growing up, because we were in the restaurant biz and the restaurant was like four blocks away from our house, we didn’t really eat leftovers. If we wanted something to eat, we just ordered from the restaurant.
Favorite restaurant to take leftovers home from: Cote. If I can’t finish the extensive courses I love to mix the steak from the butcher’s feast into the kimchi soup.
My last meal would be: My grandmother Amleia’s fricase de pollo. A Cuban staple bowl, with chicken, potatoes, and tomato-base, olives, and rice. Delicious.
What music is playing in your kitchen? At home, definitely jazz. In the (restaurant) kitchen, my staff is really into like 90s R&B. I guess nineties R&B was a hit in Cuba. If I put my ear to the door right now, they’re playing like Boyz II Men or K-Ci and JoJo.
What do you wear at home in the kitchen? A black T, Calvin Klein joggers and an apron.
What is your favorite thing about the Miami restaurant scene? I love that there’s always something new happening and that Miami’s very welcoming with whatever chef is coming in or whatever type of cuisine or whatever type of crazy restaurant, even if it’s one of these annoying restaurants coming in from New York or LA that we all love to hate.
What is your least favorite thing about the Miami restaurant scene? People that are from Miami, we worked really hard to shape the scene. And then now that we’re like, popping, is when everyone’s coming over here to kind of take advantage of us or take advantage of the city. And I don’t wanna say taking our business. I think there’s enough business for everybody, but they’re kind of claiming Miami when Miami isn’t theirs.
After work, what do you drink? Negroni.
What would people be most surprised to know about you? I’m a self-taught drummer and I love to sing. . In high school I did it together, mainly in my band, I was the lead singer and then randomly I would play drums.
Kitchen tool you swear by: Mandolin. I know it’s dangerous, but maybe that’s why I like it.
What are your go-to spots in Miami? Luca Osteria, LPM, Cote.
Most overrated culinary trend: Dubai chocolate. Even though we made a Dubai chocolate affogato the other day. If you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em, I guess.
Favorite thing to cook at home: Andong Jjimdak. It’s a Korean dish. It’s found in the city of Andong, and you can find restaurants that will only serve that. It’s basically like braised chicken, soy sauce base, with ginger, garlic, sweet potato, starch, noodles, potatoes, carrots. So, similar actually to like my last meal situation, but in Asian form.
If you weren’t a chef, what would you be doing: Probably a singer or musician.
What advice would you give aspiring chefs: Don’t jump into this because you like cooking, you have to jump into this because you love cooking and you have to like people.
Biggest guest order pet peeve: When they modify a dish completely. When people make their own dishes or they take away the best ingredients that really are what make the dish.
Favorite city to visit for food: Seoul. I just think all my favorite dishes - Korean barbecue, Kim Chi, Korean fried chicken - I had all of that recently in Seoul and it was all incredible. And you can find some good places here, but nothing like having it in the country where it originated.